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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this restaurant more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary achievement.